Emanuel Ungaro RTW Fall 2023

Kobi Halperin homed in on Ungaro's signature pleats in an eveningwear-centric lineup for fall that glittered.

In shades of gunmetal, silver, black and white, his sun-pleated silhouettes highlighted the waist and elongated the figure, whether worked in eye-catching allover sequins, foil or in classic black chiffon with an integrated cape.

There was plenty of partywear on offer, with sequins in different sizes adorning dresses and tailored pieces, intended to create an Impressionist effect inspired by Monet, who also informed the blurred floral prints and ombré looks in violet, blue and green.

Velvet separates nodded to comfort — but were still designed for dressing up.

Capes were key, offered in a range of different finishes and touted as an alternative to a tuxedo jacket, with long slits revealing the arms. "I have a passion about dramatic sleeves," Halperin explained. Needless to say, there were plenty of them.

A black trenchcoat in vegan leather, with a pleated back and short cape detail, offered a sharp alternative for day, and there was also a gray pinstripe wool suit with flared pants that nodded to Emmanuel Ungaro's love of menswear — albeit accessorized with a sequin brooch.

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